Now before we go any further I’m going to talk about naming, because reviewing malts to the wider world is a bit awkward if you can’t tell people what distillery they come from. People don’t associate tastes with numbers the way they do with names. Up till now I’ve followed the SMWS line of only showing bottling numbers but in the context of a blog it’s all a bit artificial and anyone who wants to know the name can find it online anyway with very little effort. I’ve become aware that the main reason for continuing the “secrecy” is to prevent people thinking that the standard bottlings that you’ll find in your local off-licence are going to taste like the society’s specials, but given that we’re making it plain that these tastings are very much out of the ordinary I don’t see that as a real danger. So I trust they’ll forgive me naming the distilleries this time round.

So on to the first dram and what a choice to begin with!

1. Glenfarclas

The Society’s tasting panel name - Caribbean Beach Party

Bottling number - 1.151

10 years old, 63.3%

Colour
Medium light gold

Nose
Distinctively Glenfarclas, this took me back to a bottle that my best man bought me nearly 30 years ago. Robust, butterscotch, spicy, hint of rum, light smoke.

First taste
Incredibly rich and honeyed, sticky toffee pudding, a little Seville orange and a bit of peppery spice. This is seriously strong but to me it’s not overpowering, although some of my tasting compatriots found it so and immediately headed for the water. For a 10 year old this has incredible depth.

Second taste
The warmth and quality just gets better and better. Despite the strength the spirit only gives an edge to the richness and an accent to the touch of smoke that sits in the background. A little more fruit surprisingly appears as the taste matures in the mouth. The smws panel reckoned Papaya but I don’t know that taste well enough to say.

Finish
Long and spicy

Later
Unlike some malts that are left in the glass for a while it maintains all its integrity, dark spicy fruit notes are prominent.

I didn’t care to sully this with water - it was too good as it was - but it would probably have taken it quite well.

Conclusion
Glenfarclas is an old favourite of mine, particularly the 105 proof version and this was a supercharged version of that with oodles of depth and quality. As I said on the night, when you can drag me away from the west coast islands this is what can do it. And this bottling is remarkable value - I think Olaf said £43.50 (check out their site to make sure) which is scarcely more than a standard over-proof bottle. At that price it’ll be snapped up.

In complete contrast we moved on to

2. Glenkinchy

panel name - Exotic taste of summer
Bottling - 22.28

21 years, 54%

Colour
Pale yellow

Nose
Light. Melon and Lychee.

First taste
More complex than expected. Light on the tongue but quite vibrant. The far eastern fruits are there to match the nose but there’s a lot more going on underneath as well.

Second taste
Flowery notes come through, Elderflower perhaps.

Finish
Longer than expected given the lightness of the tastes

With water
Spicey dried fruit comes through but not in any overpowering sense, just enough to give more character.

Later
Some toffee notes. Not one to leave for too long but then you wouldn’t be doing that would you?

Conclusion
I could easily have used the word “unexpected” in just about every line of this tasting. This is a subtle and interesting whisky with far more depth than most Lowland malts that I’ve experienced. It would make a fine light apperitif or a summer afternoon dram, and I’d expect a lot of people to like this.

Our next is a real rarity and a possibly unique flavour:

3. Glenugie

Panel name - Tickled by monstera deliciosa
Bottling - 99.11

29 years, 43.4%

Colour
Pale honey

Nose
This one left us all feeling that we’d come across the major note before but none of us could place what it was. Maybe Apple Strudel? Waxy, a hint of diesel oil, leather, but there’s also something else that none of us could pin down.

First taste
Spangles (that was mentioned in the November tasting on a whisky I didn’t care for but the context is rather different this time), and all of the same flavours as mentioned in the nose.

Second taste
After much discussion someone came up with a touch of soft cheese. Very unusual.

Finish
Again cheesy, and longer than expected

With water
Not strong enough to withstand water which takes too much edge off it.

Conclusion
This is very unusual - I actually hadn’t heard of it before and you may never come across it again as the distillery, which was in Peterhead, is long gone. As a contrast to the others it was fascinating and provoked a lot of discussion.

In complete contrast again we moved on to the realms of sherry:

4. Tormore

Panel name - Pouring treacle on cut grass
Bottling - 105.13
26 years, 56%

Colour
Tawny sherry.

Nose
Brazil nuts, cherry cola. I was in close agreement with the society’s panel on this one - not always the case.

First taste
Cough syrup, black treacle, warm, upper mouth tastes. Lots of influence from the sherry cask it was matured in.

Second taste
Slightly bitter counterpoint to the sherry richness.

Finish
Medium long and rich.

with water
Opens out to a xmas cake taste.

Conclusion
Heavily sherried whiskies are seldom to my taste but this was a good one and my nearest neighbour at the table really enjoyed it. I wouldn’t drink it often but as a winter warmer and companion to the festive season I can see it being popular.

At this point I hadn’t read the society notes for our last whisky and Olaf told us he’d considered a fine Ardbeg but decided instead on this one. Hope rose in my taste buds immediately and I wasn’t disappointed because the first sniff identified it immediately. Short of handing me a gold bar he couldn’t have brought a bigger smile to my face.

5. Caol Ila

Panel name - Captain Pugwash
Bottling - 53.139

27 years, 55.2%

Colour
Pale yellow. Surprisingly none of the green tinge that it usually exhibits.

Nose
Unmistakeably Caol Ila but not quite as slap-in-your-face as some younger versions. Slightly medicinal as any Islay should be but not too much. Redolent with promise of wonderful tastes to come.

First taste
Heavenly!! Light and open, fragrant, peat smoky, complex, a hint of lime. Staggeringly good.

Second taste
And it gets better and better, so many layers of tastes interacting. Marvellously subtle. Some sweeter notes appearing, peach syrup. The society’s notes mentioned all sorts of seafood - scallops and lobsters and I can see where that’s coming from (oh for a glass of this with delicately cooked scallops in olive oil) but the whole amalgam almost defied analysis because it hung together so well. We talked about the bonfire-on-the-beach impression that I’ve used before to describe this so it was nice to have that confirmed.

Someone mentioned peatiness but here I disagree with common opinion - I don’t see Caol Ila as peaty but as peat smokey. To me peaty is the taste of those dark rivers in Perthshire, the taste you get in whiskies like Blair Atholl. Yes of course many Islays are peaty but Caol Ila has a much lighter flavour which is much more reminiscent of the light smoke and pure white ash you get from the dried peat briquets that are common in Ireland.

With water
Yeah right, wild horses could’t get me to put water in this, not even for a review. It’d be a crime.

Finish
Typical cask strength Caol Ila but much more so. It lasts and lasts and lasts and there isn’t a taste like it. (If there is somebody tell me what it is!)

Conclusion
Ok, you know I’m biased, but this is simply outstanding. Probably the best whisky I’ve tasted in the last 5 years and maybe a lot longer. I really can’t praise it enough. If I could get regular supplies of this I’d even walk past Talisker for it.

Overall Thoughts

A big thank you to Olaf for such a varied and interesting selection, with a big strong starter, a couple of thought-provoking and unusual tastes to follow, a big sherry flavour in the penultimate spot, and a spectacular finale to die for. When you’re trying to choose malts to match the tastes for a varied panel you usually have at least one that is a bit disappointing for at least a few of them - though which one it is is different for them all. This time I can say I enjoyed all of them in different ways and they all provoked memories and comment from the whole group. I have to mention the Glenfarclas because it was not only very good but also fabulous value. However Olaf and I had discussed previously that of all the distilleries there was only one which their tasting panel had never rejected a cask from, and that is Caol Ila. This one demonstrates why.

After cheese and oatcakes we headed downstairs for some convivial discussion - can you guess what Olaf and I were both drinking?

Why have I been craving to taste the 19 year old Tomatin?

Fair question. But put simply if the polymath Stephen Fry feels it to be his favourite whisky (I don’t know what he likes about whisky but I trust him) describing it as “ Stunning from first nosing to final swallow”. I’m one of those who in some small way would love to be Stephen Fry and instead of being a polymath is merely otaku. Duly I feel I must taste this whisky, right now, without delay at the inglorious time of 11:45pm inspite of the ear bashing this is about to cause purely to see if Stephen Fry is right about everything, including whisky.I have to admit that I know little about Tomatin - having tasted it only once in my life about 6 years ago and the one I tasted left so little impression on me that I can’t remember a darned thing about it. And with this little tasting it’s at cask strength (57.6% ABV) so I should sleep soundly this evening and probably may have difficulty with my memory in the morning if i drink too much of it.

It’s a phenomenal golden colour - and I mean real gold not orangey and not that bronzey (sp?) colour of a sunrise but more a gentle, subtle gold that has me smiling (probably would show I liked butter if I held it up to my chin). And the smell falls right in the middle of my current tasting preferences. It reminded me of the Caribbean to start with and not rum but Tortoga cake. In particular the smell you get when you pierce the shrink wrapped cellophane wrapping around a pineapple tortoga cake. Fry talks of ‘peardrops‘ and he may be right but I don’t have much time for pear drops and preferred strawberry bonbons as a wean.

It’s slightly malty and oatmeally - like a mad scientists micro-brewery stout smelt from three streets away which leads you round two corners and up an side street (I’m actually thinking of Bridge of Allan brewery at this stage - which is strange as I’ve never smelt them brewing) before you can find the place.It packs multiple flavour layers into the mouth as it goes down - at the front of the tongue and then fattens out into the back of the mouth where the fun begins even more.

I’m actually smiling - which if you know me is as rare as hens teeth.

It’s not heavy in alcohol heat, and instead is charming, elegant and goes down too easily. At just under £70.00 it’s not the cheapest bottle I’ll buy this year but it’s in the top two I’ve tasted so far.

If you fancy tasting a whisky distilled in Scotland from the first distillery purchased by a Japanese company, judging by this it was a canny investment. If there are a couple of you having a dram together and you want a conversation started that will generate no ends of ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ and probably merriment give it a go.I’ve not tasted it with water yet but it feels like it could probably take a tiniest pipette of water and may just open up a bit further. I don’t want to risk it and when a whisky as good as this crosses your path maybe it would be a bigger sin to add water.

And now off I toddle to my bed for the night - with a smile on my face.

I’m heading back to Madeira myself in a few weeks so I might develop even more of a taste for it by the time I get back!

They are also offering a sweepstake on their website at the moment with a very interesting prize of an exclusive Scotch Whisky nosing and tasting kit containing 24 separate aromas and a dedicated nosing guide, along with a Balvenie hipflask. Go to Discover Rare Craftsmanship Sweepstakes if you fancy taking part in that.

The sweepstake seems to be part of a number of developments on their site with the Warehouse 24 members area and their Whisky Shelf - which is a place to record and compare your tasting experiences of all whiskies, not just the Balvenie, with other members.

Nice to see an attractive looking site making some enterprising additions. They should do well with it.

I got this whisky in a little miniature bottle from the guys up at Duncan Taylor and Co when I signed up to their mailing list. Which I thought was really nice of them and as soon as I’ve finished typing this up I’ll email them my thanks. Sorry for the digression and I’ll get back to the tasting before everyone loses the head with me.The Black Bull 12 year is a 50/50 mix between  malt and grain whisky and bottled at 50% ABV. And it has the colour of what most people think of as a whisky colour - a strong umbery orange colour which has the romance of whisky with a vestige of the past and what we all saw our grand parents drinking in the seventies - it looks like a lovely retro whisky, if there is such a thing!

On the first smell the alcohol dominates but makes way quickly to a Toblerone overtones (chocolate and vanilla rich whisky scents always make me think of Toblerone  - again seventies Christmases I guess). Its big on smell, and the scent lingers longer in the nose than I would normally expect which is hugely pleasant.Initial tastes of honey with a slight fruity note - reminds me of elderflower wine but as I’ve not had elderflower wine in over twelve years I could be off the mark, and the whisky coats the tongue in the way that a bourbon does with a thickness and strength I hadn’t expected. The thickness of the whisky and the creaminess continues into the finish which had a hint of tamarind or something equally oriental.

With a little water the whisky nose developed a slight smokey character the water seemed to destroy the flavour but really heightened the vanillans and weakend the finish. All in all one of the best blended whiskies I’ve had in a long time. Worth a little punt this Christmas if you have people coming round - likely to appeal to staunch whisky snobs and seasonal drinkers in the same still.

This is the perfect Hogmany family whisky - not enough to offend anyone and not enough to reach the heights of a great malt. In essence a perfect social whisky - and its the memories that whisky creates in many of us which is why we love one whisky over another although at 50% the memories may be slightly fuzzy.

If you fancy a bottle for this Hogmany have a look at the Black Bull stockists on their website or Google product search.

Bottling 35.32

34 years old, 55.1%, 183 bottles

Colour

Light

Nose

Pear drops, liquorice, someone mentioned spangles - a real blast from the past. I immediately started to feel that this one would not match my preferences.

Initial taste

Complicated and confusing rather than complex, my impressions were of a fiery, coarse nature. On this one I found the society’s tasting notes completely at odds with what I was getting from the whisky. Pear drops again, a sourness, flavours of allspice (which is a spice I don’t like), and a type of bitter citrus rind that I couldn’t pin down.

Later taste

Water improves it (not something I often say) but it’s still a very back of the throat taste that I found quite unpleasant.

Finish

More of that pear drops lingered rather  too long

Conclusion

After about three tastes I gave up on this one as it was not to my taste at all. While there are malts that I am not keen on I honestly have never disliked one as much as this. I suspect it was probably at the lower end of most of my fellow taster’s preferences too, although one of them rated it her favourite of the night. It takes all sorts - you couldn’t pay me to drink this one!

It was a relief to move on to the fourth.

Bottling 28.22

19 years old, 57.8%, 631 bottles

Colour

Very pale

Nose

Spirity, wood, and a curious scent that eventually reminded me of ham and pea soup,

Initial Taste

Front of the tongue, warm, rich,  nutmeg, dark. The flavour improves with time, with hint of charred steak and bitter orange. Quite drying though. Once again I found the supplied notes a little different to my own impressions with none of the Thai curry they mentioned or apples. Though it was interesting that someone had mentioned that pea soup that I got in the nosing.

Later Taste

Water produces a very palatable taste with lemonish notes and gets rid of that dryness. I wouldn’t go quite as far as the chocolate limes one of the original tasting panel had mentioned but it was certainly quite sweet.

Finish

Not the longest but very satisfying.

Conclusion

If drinking it neat I can imagine an Ardbeg drinker quite enjoying it, although it comes from a very different area, but if you don’t like a dryish palate then you’ll probably want to use a little water at which point it opens out into a sweeter character altogether.

On to our last of the evening and it was a really interesting choice, not at all what we were expecting from knowing the name, an Islay generally associated with maritime imagery.

Bottling 10.70

11 years old, 55.7%, 283 bottles

Colour

Very pale

Nose

A flashback to a childhood smell of swimming pool towels, lanolin, and after discussion with Mike we settled on a hint of potassium permanganate.

Taste

Middle of the tongue, rising up the gums. A strong pungent taste which, while not the normal taste for this distillery, was identifiably that complex signature that Islay drinkers love and others seldom come to terms with.

Later Taste

More of the traditional saltiness that this malt is usually associated appears with a little water, but it holds up very well and I can agree with the notes mention of leather and heather.

Finish

Substantial

Conclusion

You’ll either love it or hate it. If you like Islay then I’d definitely recommend giving it a try.

Our thanks again to the Society for their hospitality and another interesting selection.

Olaf was again our host and regaled us with more stories of his early membership (he was the first overseas member before moving to the UK and later Edinburgh) and the beginnings of the Society. The selection of whiskies for our delectation was his choice and promised to give us a fresh perspective on some different distilleries’ production. The one thing you soon learn at these events is that the casks that the Society gets bear little relation to the standard shop-bought output from these distilleries.

So, on to the whiskies themselves.

Whisky 1

Cask 37.45 - 22 years old, 56.5%  (230  bottles available)

Colour

Light honey

Nose

Leather, marzipan.

Taste

Initial taste

Front of the tongue. Spicy, intense. The society’s panel mentioned Victory V losenges and I can agree with that. There are also flavours of spicy duck as you’d get in a Chinese restaurant and hints of the dark sauce that’s usually served with crispy duck.

Later taste

No change in character, just a rounding of the flavours

Finish

Long, warming.

After a little water

Sweeter, more light honey, later hints of lemonade.

Conclusion

Very nice. Very interesting, I could definitely enjoy an evening with this. Most of my fellow panelists agreed. Way better than anything I’d tasted from this distillery

Whisky 1a

This was a  surprise bonus from Olaf - same distillery as the first but this time it had spent 15 years in Sherry casks.

Strength was a surprising 60.4% though there was little sense of overpowering spirit. A lovely rich nose that immediately suggested festive celebrations. Tastes of slightly singed Xmas cake; very rich, smoother than the first version despite the additional strength but even more spicy. A touch of Rum coming through.

Rather surprisingly water really draws the strength out of it,  makes it sweeter. Later on it’s still rich.

You probably couldn’t drink much of this at its full strength but you’d enjoy what you did. Definitely a malt for special occasions. Diluted it’s a different dram, still interesting but not with the same character.

Whisky 2

Cask 26.63 - 12 years old, 58.7% (580 bottles)

Colour

Pale

Nose

Nail polish immediately - everyone seemed to agree on that. Hints of Rosemary, something I couldn’t immediately identify but which was probably the Chartreuse mentioned in the society notes, plastic.

Taste

Spicy toffee! Yeah, strange concept isn’t it? The initially puzzling background taste resolved itself into oak wood chips.

Finish

Oily, oaky.

After a little water

Water smooths it off, more pleasant but less character.

Conclusion

This is an odd one. There are aspects that are interesting but it doesn’t really hang together properly for me. There’s too much oiliness and the nose is confusing - it doesn’t seem to match the taste.

(Tasting notes will continue in the next post)

The whisky in question is The Balvenie, a Speyside noted for its smooth taste. Now regular readers will know that I’m not really a Speyside afficionado; generally favouring the wilder and more complex flavours of the west coast, though I do have fond memories of an evening spent drinking Balvenie in the company of the historical novelist Dorothy Dunnett, herself an expert and appreciative malt drinker; but the prospect of a combination with the rich taste of Madeira easily pursuaded me to lay aside my normal preference for smoke and peat.

The Balvenie - Madeira Cask, 17 years old, 43%

Colour

Medium-light honey

Nose

Soft, smooth, a suggestion of honey with a slight hint of cough medicine. The Madeira comes through well. Leaving it for a few minutes produces a vanilla note with the Madeira fading back.

Taste

Initial taste

Warm without being spirity. Front of the tongue tastes predominate, redolent of one of the richer honeys such as Manuka.

Later taste

The honey dies back and a spicier taste appears - very reminicent of Christmas cake with flavours of dark dried fruits and cinnamon.

Finish

Medium length. Not essentially different from the flavours of the second taste, but while in a west coast malt I would find that slightly disappointing, here it is much more appropriate for it to maintain consistency.

After a little water

A touch of water releases some lighter vanilla notes and the taste lightens too, becoming sweeter and finally producing the Madeira cake flavour that I’d been expecting might be present. I seldom prefer watered versions but here it’s a satisfying counterpoint.

Conclusion

The marriage between smooth Speyside spirit and the rich flavours of Madeiran wine works very well. While Balvenie isn’t as complex a spirit as one from Islay or Skye, its smooth refined palate provides an ideal base for the addition of the rich spiciness provided by the wine casks. Had this approach been applied to a more complicated malt it might well have resulted in a clash, here it blends the respective flavours to produce something that exceeds both. If you like smooth Speysides and especially if you also like rich, spicy fortified wines then I’d recommend that you give this one a try when it’s released in September.

One of Dorothy Dunnett’s books involves the hero’s Scots father owning a plantation on Madeira in the 15th century - it’s a connection that now makes perfect sense.

Old Pulteney - 30 year old, 44%

Colour

Pale gold, lemon or maybe acacia honey

Nose

Sea air, green leaves, light and airy

Taste

Initial taste

After the colour and nose this was unexpectedly warm and rich, redolent of caramel chocolate. Not the false “added caramel” taste you get with some cheaper malts though, rather a luscious but light flavour, and maybe that acacia honey thought wasn’t far off the mark. Darker chocolate notes increase later.

Later taste

A citrus tang  - perhaps bitter Seville orange - creeps in as the whisky warms up. This seems to help it remain relatively light for such a venerable malt.

Finish

Long and delicately rich - light honey predominating

Conclusion

Well balanced and satisfying. Although it’s a 30-year old it retains a freshness more associated with the 12-15s that I usually favour, with none of the over-rich cloying tastes that you sometimes see in older Speysides. The fact that there has been no additional finishing with wine or sherry casks, and plain white bourbon casks have been used throughout, means that the quality of the spirit has been allowed to predominate. Given the fashion for experimental finishes this could be seen as either brave or just very sympathetic to the nature of the whisky. Whichever it was it’s been the right decision and very worthwhile.

Again and again when I’m doing these tastings I’m amazed at how often the whiskies encapsulate the feelings of the places where they are distilled and matured. Even in a blindfold tasting I would know this was a north-east whisky without a shadow of a doubt.

This is a gentle dram, subtle rather than complex, but pure rather than simple. It has an understated but undeniable quality which is refreshing, like the air on the north coast from which it comes.

I would expect it to be a good match for fish, particularly something like the herring which Wick was once so famous for, where the citrus taste would match with the sweetness of the fish. But it would also stand alone as a perfect after dinner dram. This is not a cheap dram but it is a very good one. If you like sound of the descriptions or are already a fan of the northern malts then I can heartily recommend it to anyone with the budget. I’m quite taken with this and I’ll certainly be watching out for some of the other single malts they produce to see if they reflect the same fine qualities.

The first whisky in our tasting was from a distillery in Falkirk that is sadly no more. Mike has long had a soft spot for this one so he’ll be annoyed that he couldn’t make the tasting. Regrettably my original tasting notes disappeared from my Palm Pilot, so these are based on recollections a few days afterwards with hints from the Society’s own notes. Sometimes I agreed with them, sometimes I didn’t…

Cask no 25.47

Described by the Society as A Sunny Flower Meadow Picnic
19 years old, 59.7%

Colour

Pale yellow

Nose

Spirity to begin with, as might be expected from this strength, with floral scents coming through and a hint of what might be a resin.

Taste

first taste

Not really what I’d expected at all - much better than the basic malt that used to be sold in the shops. Softer and more subtle, floral notes - maybe elderflower - but with hints of spice - probably Cinnamon - and wood.

later taste

Rose begins to come through along with a taste that reminds me of the smell of old leather furniture. The Society tasting panel mentioned chocolate and marshmallow although I can’t say I noticed those.

Finish

Some of my fellow tasters thought the finish was long but I found the opposite. What was there was good though.

With a little water

I have to say that I overdid the water a little, and as a result I probably missed the effect somewhat. However there was no sense of the sudden release of aromatics that I’m familiar with from the western distilleries. A little more rose and maybe a touch of pineapple-type citrus. The Society notes mentioned lemon and cut grass and I could see where that might be the case if I’d used a little less water.

Sometimes leaving a whisky for 10 or 15 minutes can bring out more flavours. We checked back on this one later and found that it wasn’t one that benefited from this approach. Personally I’d drink it at cask strength.

Conclusion

While this lowlander wasn’t my usual style of malt it was a satisfying dram, light and subtle with some excellently blended flavours. Because it is no longer made it has rarity value - at the price quoted I probably wouldn’t buy it myself, but for those of you who favour this style I can imagine it being a must-have and I suspect it’ll sell out quickly.