For this first survey of Islay single malts I’m sticking as much as possible to standard versions that you should be able to get from most decent off-licenses (liquor stores for our American cousins). This will give us a comparison point when we come to the more exotic versions later on and will allow our less experienced readers to progress through the tastes with us on our explorations. Our journey starts with a malt known as the “hidden” Islay because it is far less well known than some of the others:
Caol Ila - 12 years old, 43%
Produced just a few hundred yards north of Port Askaig on the east coast of the island and looking over the sound to Jura. The name means “Sound of Islay”. The distillery, which once had its own puffer, was rebuilt in 1974.
Colour
The colour is a pale yellow, with not so much of the greenish tinge that some of the other variants of this malt often have.
Nose
The initial nose is subtle, and predominantly smoky. Deeper inhalation gives a warmer impression with a hint of iodine.
Taste
Initial taste impression
There is a balance of flavours here that makes analysis quite difficult. Smoke certainly but not overwhelming, and unlike a Dalwhinnie (much improved in recent years) there is a lot more going on than just good smoke. Peat, like any Islay, but again not overwhelming. There is a hint of … what is it? Liquorice? no not as strong as that, Black Treacle perhaps. The more you try to pin down individual tastes the more they slip away; just when you think you’ve tasted something sweet it turns into a hint of citrus.
A few sips later
There is some suggestion of grass, but definitely a salty grass, redolent of fresh winds sweeping across the machair - no possibility of this being from anywhere other than an island, it has Islay written all through it. A relaxed warmth on the front and centre of the tongue precedes a lovely peat influenced finish that lingers in the back of the throat.
Adding a (very) little water
Not as much effect as with the stronger proof versions but there seemed to be a subtle hint of rich bitter chocolate, which I must admit wasn’t what I expected.
But balance is the word I keep returning to, the overall taste is like all of these and none of these. There’s a natural balance of flavours here that master blenders would give their right arms for. You can see why this malt has been so popular for blending - apparently about 90% of their output goes into a number of blended whiskies. But thank heavens we have the pure malt available - it’s not that long ago that some single malts were simply never sold in their natural state.
Conclusion
Not as smack-in-the-mouth gorgeous as the cask strength versions I’ve had in the past but for a standard bottle of 12 year old 43% this is seriously good stuff. I may have to do an AB comparison against my long-time favourite Talisker in this category. I’ll need to do it soon before the Caol Ila bottle runs out - I seem to be becoming an Islay addict!
My next Caol Ila purchase may be a stronger proof version and it may have to wait till I’ve bought something else for the Islay tasting, but there will definitely be one. And if for any reason it had to be this standard version then I could live with that; this is a very good whisky indeed.
