Tasting time again for the bloggers, this time at the Scottish Malt Whisky Society’s original home at the Vaults in Leith. While Queen St is a fine venue, particularly the boardroom with its views over the New Town, the Vaults have an atmosphere all their own that Mike and I appreciate. Olaf told us that it’s the longest-serving building of the wine and spirit trade in Scotland, dating back originally to the 14th Century, passing to the Vintner’s Guild in the 16th C and Andrew Usher in 1875. The society bought it in 1985 and what is now the main members room was previously where the auctions took place.

Very sadly the Vaults lost their very popular manager recently. Douglas McFarlane died while taking part in the Edinburgh Marathon, and so this tasting was dedicated to him.

While Olaf normally tries to choose a wide spread of malts from a geographical perspective, on this occasion we had 3 Speysides and 2 Islays, but the range of tastes was a wide as ever.

Longmorn

Cask No: 7.58, 19 year old, 51.4%

Colour

Pale Gold

Nose

This made quite an impression – it had a sharp almost effervescent character. Almost reminded me of an alcoholic version of Cremola Foam, and explained the society’s tasting panel comments of sherbet and ginger beer.

Initial Taste

More unexpected contrasts here. It was warm and rich, yet at the same time light and subtle. Yes that probably is a contradiction but that’s the complexity of malt whisky for you.

Later Taste

Second sip and we started to find fruits – mango and orange, with just a hint of tea-tree and some rich flower essences. Yet there was also a base of black treacle. If you were to come up with those flavours you’d never believe they would blend well together but the combination works a treat.

Finish

Medium length and sweet.

With water

I don’t advise adding water to this. It kills the nose and the subtlety is greatly diminished.

Conclusion

A subtle and intriguing whisky which I’d be happy to explore further.

Inchgower

Cask No: 18.30, 24 year old, 45.5%

Nose

Very strong and distinctive. Joss sticks, salt, must, and what one of the Whisky Boys identified as Cedarwood.

Initial Taste

Honey on the front of the tongue – the panel had suggested Sauternes, which I would agree with, and Montilla Sherry, which I haven’t tasted. Seafood tastes began to come through.

Later Taste

Having initially liked this I was a little disappointed to find that the tastes seemed to blend together and it lost the interesting competition of flavours.

Finish

Long and rich but becoming a little monotone as the tasting progressed.

With water

A more citrusy flavour was opened out with a very little water. A hint of lemongrass and ginger which agreed with the panel, though I didn’t detect any of the marijuana leaf that was also mentioned, honest officer.

Conclusion

Initially I was quite taken with this but it lost me later on as the flavours lost their individuality. However some of my fellow tasters rated it very highly so if the flavours mentioned here are attractive to you then it’s worth giving it a try.

Daluaine

Cask No: 41.45, 25 year old, 56.1%

Colour

Darkish gold with a hint of red

Nose

This whisky provoked tales of rubbing the spirit on the hands and nosing it that way, and indeed Olaf did this on the night. My more conventional method brought a sense of rich tobacco and cigars.

Initial Taste

Initially it tasted dry with an ash aftertaste. Not dissimilar to a standard Ardbeg but based more on tobacco rather than wood.

Later Taste

As it developed it became sweeter and more syrupy, which was quiet unexpected, but it still retained a feeling of an old gentleman’s club. Think oak panelled rooms with old retainers bringing fudge and chocolate on a silver platter.

Finish

Medium-long, with the tastes matching those already mentioned.

With water

I’m never a great fan of water and it didn’t add much to this dram

Conclusion

I liked this, but curiously the memory of it seems better than the feeling on the night. Had I had it on its own then I’d probably have been quite happy but I suspect it suffered from the two that followed it.

Interlude

At this point we had a new development in the shape of a supper of Chicken and thick-cut chips. Very welcome indeed and most generous of the society to lay this on. I did wonder slightly if that would affect the tasting but the two malts to follow were quite strong enough to overcome any such concerns.

Caol Ila

Cask No: 53.141, 20 year old, 52%

After the last tasting in February in which the Caol Ila was a brilliant standout which I could have stayed with forever I was looking forward to seeing what else they could come up with.

Nose

Not as strong as most Caol Ila’s, more subtle

Initial Taste

Slightly sweeter than usual and not as smoky. Bright was the word that Lucas of the Edinburgh Whisky Blog used and that works for me too.

Later Taste

It’s very subtle. Hints of heather and oriental cooking flavours such as the pak choi that was mentioned in the panel’s notes

Finish

Satisfying, as Caol Ila always is, but perhaps not quite as long as usual.

With water

Just a touch, since I’d have preferred if it had started slightly stronger than the 52%. Opened out a little with more smoke and hints of lime and mint.

Conclusion

After the previous bottling (which sold out very quickly) it was maybe inevitable that this one would suffer a little by the comparison, but it was nevertheless very good, and I’d like to try an evening of it alone to see how it stands up to longer analysis. Lucas voted this his favourite and we both wondered at the price comparison with the new Caol Ila 25 year old (twice the price and only 43% strength) which he mentioned on his blog recently. I’ll have to search the bars for that as I can’t afford a full bottle.

Ardbeg

Cask No: 33.88, 10 year old, 56.5%

Colour

Light blond

Nose

Classic Islay, slightly medicinal with lemon drops, mint, salt and wood.

Initial Taste

Mightily impressive. Surprisingly the taste was substantially different from the nose. Suggestions of Benedictine and TCP. Not as dry as some Ardbegs. It was only at this point that it sunk in that this was a 10 year old.

Later Taste

It seems to get stronger and more complex the further into it you get. Not sure where the panel’s “telegraph poles in swimming pools” came from – clearly the panel lead wild lives! – but that sense of country smells with tar and wood preservative and fresh west-coast air is very much there.

Finish

Long and gratifying.

With water

If your tastes are anything like mine you won’t want to know, so I didn’t try it.

Conclusion

For me this Ardbeg was the top malt of the evening, and for a dedicated Caol Ila fan that’s saying something. Wonderfully complex for a 10 year old you could find new flavours with every sip. We were served the usual cheese board and some chocolate truffles at the end of the tasting and they both went well with this so it stands up to competing tastes very well. What I found really surprising was that this was the cheapest of the evening’s selection, but even had it been the most expensive I would recommend any Islay fan to seek this one out.

Overall Thoughts

An intriguing selection by Olaf – quite diverse considering their geographical locations. More subtlety compared to the previous round which was perhaps more grandly impressive. Previous rounds have often had two or three which I liked a lot and one or two which were less to my tastes. This time all of them were very interesting and at least four of them would be more than welcome at my table, and strangely enough that one, the Inchgower, was voted a favourite by a couple of my fellow bloggers. Of the three Speysides the Longmorn was my preference and I could happily spend an evening or two with that. The two Islays however were simply delicious, with the Ardbeg winning out this time with an outstanding expression. I suspect this is another that will sell out quickly so get there in a hurry. If you miss out then the Caol Ila won’t disappoint unless you’re lucky enough to already have a bottle of the February release, and fans will probably want it anyway.

Thanks again Olaf, an excellent evening.