Discover Whisky

Hardly seems any time at all since the last Scotch Malt Whisky Society tasting at Queen St. but here we are again. Sadly Mike got sent off to London on business at the last minute - he missed at least two cracking malts.

Now before we go any further I’m going to talk about naming, because reviewing malts to the wider world is a bit awkward if you can’t tell people what distillery they come from. People don’t associate tastes with numbers the way they do with names. Up till now I’ve followed the SMWS line of only showing bottling numbers but in the context of a blog it’s all a bit artificial and anyone who wants to know the name can find it online anyway with very little effort. I’ve become aware that the main reason for continuing the “secrecy” is to prevent people thinking that the standard bottlings that you’ll find in your local off-licence are going to taste like the society’s specials, but given that we’re making it plain that these tastings are very much out of the ordinary I don’t see that as a real danger. So I trust they’ll forgive me naming the distilleries this time round.

So on to the first dram and what a choice to begin with!

1. Glenfarclas

The Society’s tasting panel name - Caribbean Beach Party

Bottling number - 1.151

10 years old, 63.3%

Colour
Medium light gold

Nose
Distinctively Glenfarclas, this took me back to a bottle that my best man bought me nearly 30 years ago. Robust, butterscotch, spicy, hint of rum, light smoke.

First taste
Incredibly rich and honeyed, sticky toffee pudding, a little Seville orange and a bit of peppery spice. This is seriously strong but to me it’s not overpowering, although some of my tasting compatriots found it so and immediately headed for the water. For a 10 year old this has incredible depth.

Second taste
The warmth and quality just gets better and better. Despite the strength the spirit only gives an edge to the richness and an accent to the touch of smoke that sits in the background. A little more fruit surprisingly appears as the taste matures in the mouth. The smws panel reckoned Papaya but I don’t know that taste well enough to say.

Finish
Long and spicy

Later
Unlike some malts that are left in the glass for a while it maintains all its integrity, dark spicy fruit notes are prominent.

I didn’t care to sully this with water - it was too good as it was - but it would probably have taken it quite well.

Conclusion
Glenfarclas is an old favourite of mine, particularly the 105 proof version and this was a supercharged version of that with oodles of depth and quality. As I said on the night, when you can drag me away from the west coast islands this is what can do it. And this bottling is remarkable value - I think Olaf said £43.50 (check out their site to make sure) which is scarcely more than a standard over-proof bottle. At that price it’ll be snapped up.

In complete contrast we moved on to

2. Glenkinchy

panel name - Exotic taste of summer
Bottling - 22.28

21 years, 54%

Colour
Pale yellow

Nose
Light. Melon and Lychee.

First taste
More complex than expected. Light on the tongue but quite vibrant. The far eastern fruits are there to match the nose but there’s a lot more going on underneath as well.

Second taste
Flowery notes come through, Elderflower perhaps.

Finish
Longer than expected given the lightness of the tastes

With water
Spicey dried fruit comes through but not in any overpowering sense, just enough to give more character.

Later
Some toffee notes. Not one to leave for too long but then you wouldn’t be doing that would you?

Conclusion
I could easily have used the word “unexpected” in just about every line of this tasting. This is a subtle and interesting whisky with far more depth than most Lowland malts that I’ve experienced. It would make a fine light apperitif or a summer afternoon dram, and I’d expect a lot of people to like this.

Our next is a real rarity and a possibly unique flavour:

3. Glenugie

Panel name - Tickled by monstera deliciosa
Bottling - 99.11

29 years, 43.4%

Colour
Pale honey

Nose
This one left us all feeling that we’d come across the major note before but none of us could place what it was. Maybe Apple Strudel? Waxy, a hint of diesel oil, leather, but there’s also something else that none of us could pin down.

First taste
Spangles (that was mentioned in the November tasting on a whisky I didn’t care for but the context is rather different this time), and all of the same flavours as mentioned in the nose.

Second taste
After much discussion someone came up with a touch of soft cheese. Very unusual.

Finish
Again cheesy, and longer than expected

With water
Not strong enough to withstand water which takes too much edge off it.

Conclusion
This is very unusual - I actually hadn’t heard of it before and you may never come across it again as the distillery, which was in Peterhead, is long gone. As a contrast to the others it was fascinating and provoked a lot of discussion.

In complete contrast again we moved on to the realms of sherry:

4. Tormore

Panel name - Pouring treacle on cut grass
Bottling - 105.13
26 years, 56%

Colour
Tawny sherry.

Nose
Brazil nuts, cherry cola. I was in close agreement with the society’s panel on this one - not always the case.

First taste
Cough syrup, black treacle, warm, upper mouth tastes. Lots of influence from the sherry cask it was matured in.

Second taste
Slightly bitter counterpoint to the sherry richness.

Finish
Medium long and rich.

with water
Opens out to a xmas cake taste.

Conclusion
Heavily sherried whiskies are seldom to my taste but this was a good one and my nearest neighbour at the table really enjoyed it. I wouldn’t drink it often but as a winter warmer and companion to the festive season I can see it being popular.

At this point I hadn’t read the society notes for our last whisky and Olaf told us he’d considered a fine Ardbeg but decided instead on this one. Hope rose in my taste buds immediately and I wasn’t disappointed because the first sniff identified it immediately. Short of handing me a gold bar he couldn’t have brought a bigger smile to my face.

5. Caol Ila

Panel name - Captain Pugwash
Bottling - 53.139

27 years, 55.2%

Colour
Pale yellow. Surprisingly none of the green tinge that it usually exhibits.

Nose
Unmistakeably Caol Ila but not quite as slap-in-your-face as some younger versions. Slightly medicinal as any Islay should be but not too much. Redolent with promise of wonderful tastes to come.

First taste
Heavenly!! Light and open, fragrant, peat smoky, complex, a hint of lime. Staggeringly good.

Second taste
And it gets better and better, so many layers of tastes interacting. Marvellously subtle. Some sweeter notes appearing, peach syrup. The society’s notes mentioned all sorts of seafood - scallops and lobsters and I can see where that’s coming from (oh for a glass of this with delicately cooked scallops in olive oil) but the whole amalgam almost defied analysis because it hung together so well. We talked about the bonfire-on-the-beach impression that I’ve used before to describe this so it was nice to have that confirmed.

Someone mentioned peatiness but here I disagree with common opinion - I don’t see Caol Ila as peaty but as peat smokey. To me peaty is the taste of those dark rivers in Perthshire, the taste you get in whiskies like Blair Atholl. Yes of course many Islays are peaty but Caol Ila has a much lighter flavour which is much more reminiscent of the light smoke and pure white ash you get from the dried peat briquets that are common in Ireland.

With water
Yeah right, wild horses could’t get me to put water in this, not even for a review. It’d be a crime.

Finish
Typical cask strength Caol Ila but much more so. It lasts and lasts and lasts and there isn’t a taste like it. (If there is somebody tell me what it is!)

Conclusion
Ok, you know I’m biased, but this is simply outstanding. Probably the best whisky I’ve tasted in the last 5 years and maybe a lot longer. I really can’t praise it enough. If I could get regular supplies of this I’d even walk past Talisker for it.

Overall Thoughts

A big thank you to Olaf for such a varied and interesting selection, with a big strong starter, a couple of thought-provoking and unusual tastes to follow, a big sherry flavour in the penultimate spot, and a spectacular finale to die for. When you’re trying to choose malts to match the tastes for a varied panel you usually have at least one that is a bit disappointing for at least a few of them - though which one it is is different for them all. This time I can say I enjoyed all of them in different ways and they all provoked memories and comment from the whole group. I have to mention the Glenfarclas because it was not only very good but also fabulous value. However Olaf and I had discussed previously that of all the distilleries there was only one which their tasting panel had never rejected a cask from, and that is Caol Ila. This one demonstrates why.

After cheese and oatcakes we headed downstairs for some convivial discussion - can you guess what Olaf and I were both drinking?

I am standing in my kitchen having just got round to opening todays mail - cheers to Michelle for letting me know I had some just after 11 o’clock at night - and I find a brown package. And inside is the strangest bubbliest air inflated packaging I have seen. Once I get this off I find three little bubble wrapped packages of delight from the guys over @ Master of Malt. At this stage I’m enraptured, salivating and carefully getting the contents out and inside I find a selection of whiskies. And within this little bundle of joy - which this early in the month is doubly pleasing, I find something I’ve been wanting to taste for a while - the 19 year old Tomatin.

Why have I been craving to taste the 19 year old Tomatin?

Fair question. But put simply if the polymath Stephen Fry feels it to be his favourite whisky (I don’t know what he likes about whisky but I trust him) describing it as “ Stunning from first nosing to final swallow”. I’m one of those who in some small way would love to be Stephen Fry and instead of being a polymath is merely otaku. Duly I feel I must taste this whisky, right now, without delay at the inglorious time of 11:45pm inspite of the ear bashing this is about to cause purely to see if Stephen Fry is right about everything, including whisky.I have to admit that I know little about Tomatin - having tasted it only once in my life about 6 years ago and the one I tasted left so little impression on me that I can’t remember a darned thing about it. And with this little tasting it’s at cask strength (57.6% ABV) so I should sleep soundly this evening and probably may have difficulty with my memory in the morning if i drink too much of it.

It’s a phenomenal golden colour - and I mean real gold not orangey and not that bronzey (sp?) colour of a sunrise but more a gentle, subtle gold that has me smiling (probably would show I liked butter if I held it up to my chin). And the smell falls right in the middle of my current tasting preferences. It reminded me of the Caribbean to start with and not rum but Tortoga cake. In particular the smell you get when you pierce the shrink wrapped cellophane wrapping around a pineapple tortoga cake. Fry talks of ‘peardrops‘ and he may be right but I don’t have much time for pear drops and preferred strawberry bonbons as a wean.

It’s slightly malty and oatmeally - like a mad scientists micro-brewery stout smelt from three streets away which leads you round two corners and up an side street (I’m actually thinking of Bridge of Allan brewery at this stage - which is strange as I’ve never smelt them brewing) before you can find the place.It packs multiple flavour layers into the mouth as it goes down - at the front of the tongue and then fattens out into the back of the mouth where the fun begins even more.

I’m actually smiling - which if you know me is as rare as hens teeth.

It’s not heavy in alcohol heat, and instead is charming, elegant and goes down too easily. At just under £70.00 it’s not the cheapest bottle I’ll buy this year but it’s in the top two I’ve tasted so far.

If you fancy tasting a whisky distilled in Scotland from the first distillery purchased by a Japanese company, judging by this it was a canny investment. If there are a couple of you having a dram together and you want a conversation started that will generate no ends of ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ and probably merriment give it a go.I’ve not tasted it with water yet but it feels like it could probably take a tiniest pipette of water and may just open up a bit further. I don’t want to risk it and when a whisky as good as this crosses your path maybe it would be a bigger sin to add water.

And now off I toddle to my bed for the night - with a smile on my face.